Morocco
Lisbon, Fes and Marrakech
Lisbon: A Perfect Stopover
We took advantage of the free Lisbon stopover that TAP Air Portugal offers on flights from NYC to Morocco. Lisbon is perfect for families - packed with charm, history, and flavor! It’s small enough to explore in a weekend and we wandered colorful neighborhoods, soaked in waterfront views, and indulged in incredible food and pastries over just a couple days.
Rooms & Plates
We stayed at a lovely Airbnb in the Alfama district, which was perfect for exploring the city on foot. We loved Nunes Real Marisqueira for fresh seafood and Coelho da Rocha for hearty Portuguese meats. The Time Out Market — a large food hall with endless and delicious options, was a big hit with the kids.
Fes: A Journey Through the Alleys of Time
The Medina in Fes, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a labyrinth of narrow alleys and bustling markets. The city is not easy to navigate but its charm lies in its chaos. Fes feels like a living museum where every corner reveals artisans preserving centuries-old traditions: weavers crafting intricate textiles, potters shaping vibrant ceramics, and metalworkers hammering delicate lanterns. Against this backdrop of craftsmanship, the medina hums with life—the clatter of donkey carts laden with goods, the rhythmic banter of shopkeepers haggling with locals and the occasional call to tourists to explore their wares. It’s a city unlike any other, where history and daily life intertwine in a way that feels timeless and deeply soulful.
To explore the medina, we hired a guide. Without one, it’s easy to lose your way and miss the layers of history tucked into every corner.
Highlights of our walking tour included:
The Al-Qarawiyyin University: Founded in 859, it’s recognized as the oldest existing, continually operating higher educational institution in the world. Its stunning courtyard and intricate tilework are a testament to Islamic architecture.
Bou Inania Madrasa: A masterpiece of Marinid architecture, this 14th-century Islamic school dazzles with its intricate zellige tilework, carved cedar wood, and a serene courtyard that feels like stepping into a geometric dream.
Chouara Tannery: One of the oldest tanneries in the world, its vibrant dye pits and traditional leather-making process offer a sensory journey into a craft that has remained unchanged for centuries.
Bab Bou Jeloud (Blue Gate): The iconic entrance to the medina, its striking blue and green tiles are a masterpiece of Moorish design, making it a symbolic start to exploring Fes.
Mellah (Jewish Quarter): A historic neighborhood showcasing Fes’ multicultural past, its distinctive architecture—with ornate balconies and narrow streets—tells the story of a vibrant Jewish community that once thrived here.
Royal Palace of Fes: While the interior is off-limits, the palace’s grand golden gates, adorned with intricate brasswork and surrounded by lush gardens, are a visual introduction to Morocco’s architectural grandeur.
Zawiya of Moulay Idriss II: A holy site and mausoleum containing the tomb of Idris II, the founder of Fes, its green-tiled roof and tranquil atmosphere make it a spiritual sanctuary in the heart of the medina.
Marinid Tombs: Perched on a hill overlooking the city, these ruins provide panoramic views of Fes, especially breathtaking at sunset.
Rooms & Plates
We stayed at the Karawan Riad, a gorgeous, family-friendly riad in the heart of the medina. Since cars can’t enter the medina’s narrow streets, the riad arranged for a porter to meet us at the nearest accessible point with a luggage cart which made it easy to navigate the winding streets. For meals, we enjoyed simple tagines and couscous at local spots recommended by the riad staff. The kids loved the fresh orange juice from street vendors
Why stay at a riad?
These renovated traditional Moroccan homes, hidden within the Medina’s labyrinthine alleys, reveal a luxurious retreat. Step through an unassuming door into a tranquil courtyard where the soft trickle of a fountain mingles with the scent of orange blossoms. Intricate zellige tiles, hand-carved cedar wood ceilings, and wrought-iron balconies draped in bougainvillea create a setting that is indulgent and intimate, centered around a fountain or dipping pool, offering a respite from the medina’s bustle.
Mornings in a riad are an experience in themselves, with breakfast served on the rooftop terrace or the courtyard—warm msemen and khobz with local honey and homemade jams, freshly squeezed orange juice and Moroccan coffee or mint tea, poured with precision.
Beyond just a place to stay, riads provide highly personalized service—attentive yet unobtrusive—and an immersive experience of Moroccan craftsmanship and hospitality.
Marrakech: A Sensory Feast of Sights and Sounds
If Fes feels like a step back in time, Marrakech is a full-on sensory explosion. At the heart of the city lies Jemaa el-Fnaa, the medina’s main square, which buzzes with energy from dawn until well after dusk. But it’s at sunset when it truly comes alive, transforming into a pulsing, open-air carnival that feels like the soul of Marrakech unleashed. The rhythmic beat of drums mingles with the calls of orange juice vendors, while the smoky aroma of sizzling kebabs and spices wafts through the air from countless food stalls. Snake charmers, henna artists, and storytellers compete for attention as locals and tourists alike crowd the food stalls under the glow of lanterns. Marrakech’s medina is less intimidating than that of Fes but we had to watch out for the speedy and loud motorbikes that zip around the narrows streets without much regard for the pedestrians.
Over the next two days, we explored the city’s architectural and cultural gems: the intricately carved Madrasa Ben Youssef, the towering Koutoubia Mosque, the artistically lavish Bahia Palace, the opulent Saadian Tombs, the tranquil Le Jardin Secret, the artisitic House of Photography and the atmospheric ruins of El Badi Palace. Marrakech is a city of contrasts—where the beauty of centuries-old craftsmanship meets the vibrant pulse of a city modernizing itself.
Rooms & Plates
In Marrakech, we stayed at Le Riad Dix Neuf, a charming riad with a rooftop terrace that offered stunning views of the city. It was the perfect retreat after a day of exploring. For food, we discovered Nomad, a rooftop restaurant in the medina with Moroccan fusion dishes and a kid-friendly vibe. Another favorite was Le Jardin, a lush oasis with a cozy rooftop terrace—perfect for a relaxed dinner after a busy day.