The Cyclades in Six Days
Church in Milos, Greece
When we planned our trip to the Greek Isles, we wanted to avoid the crowds of Santorini and Mykonos, so we chose Milos and Sifnos instead—and we couldn’t have been happier. Milos, with its dramatic and stunning beaches, felt like stepping into a postcard, while Sifnos offered a more low-key charm, especially with its incredible food. These two islands gave us everything we were looking for: breathtaking scenery, amazing food, and a more relaxed way to experience Greece.
Milos’ beaches stand out for their incredible diversity—from the lunar-like white rock formations of Sarakiniko to the colorful cliffs of Fyriplaka and the secluded sea caves of Kleftiko—each one offering a different experience and well worth a visit. Reachable by an hour-long ferry ride is Sifnos—a charming Cycladic island known for its traditional whitewashed villages and golden sandy beaches and renowned for its culinary scene.
If you have more time, we recommend combining the Greek islands with a trip to Northern Greece. We did just that and you can find out itinerary here.
Great for kids 5+ years
Great for an early summer break, when the weather is mild(er) and the crowds, thinner
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The first thing you should know about a flight to Milos is that you should be prepared for delays and if you check your bags, you should be prepared for them not to arrive.
Milos is surrounded by the Aegean Sea, where strong winds (particularly the Meltemi winds in summer) can disrupt flight schedules. So if you’re on a tight schedule, we recommend taking the ferry. The high-speed ferries take between 3-4 hours.We arrived in Milos in the early afternoon without our bags! We had packed a change of clothes and our swimsuits in our backpacks (highly recommend you do that) so it wasn’t a major inconvenience. Our bags arrived on a later flight in the evening, so all was well. But this is not unusual at all.
We picked up our rental car and headed to our lovely Airbnb in the Plaka area and very quickly made our way to Kyra for brunch (two thumbs up!) before hitting the list of beaches we wanted to go check out.Our first stop was Papafragas beach, a stunning natural cove with turquoise waters, dramatic cliffs, and a unique sea tunnel carved by the Aegean, through which you can swim. The water is exquisite and the swim to the tunnel and cave is worth it.
From there, we headed to Sarakiniko Beach—one of the most photograhed spots on Milos. Its lunar-like landscape of smooth white volcanic rock contrasts beautifully against the deep blue Aegean Sea. After jumping off the rocks many, many times, we headed to Plathiena Beach on the northwest side of the island to catch the sunset. Plathiena is a more traditional beach, with golden sand, nestled in a picturesque cove with calm, clear waters. There’s a nice beach bar and restaurant across from the beach, which makes for a perfect setting to grab some food while you watch the sun set.
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After a lazy morning, we headed to Firopotamos, a small beach surrounded by dramatic cliffs with colorful boats dotting the shore. It was a little too crowded for our liking, so we decided to head to Empourios Taverna for lunch. Recommended by our host, I’m glad we went. The restaurant is located on the southeastern side of Milos, right on the water, so much so that the waves lap at your feet while you eat. The road to the taverna is very narrow and winding, with beautiful views of the coastline. It’s best to visit for lunch, so you can enjoy the dramatic views. It will also make for easier driving during the day time.
After lunch we made our way to Tsigrado Beach—a secluded spot, tucked away amid high cliffs and accessible via a steep ladder. We were the only ones there until another couple showed up. After enjoying a swim, we headed next “door” (just 3 minutes by car) to Fyriplaka beach—a more traditional beach with an expansive stretch of golden sand surrounded by cliffs and a large, striking rock resting just offshore in the shallow waters.
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Having heard so much about Kleftiko Beach—known for its striking white rock formations, crystal-clear waters and sea caves, we knew we had to check it out. The ‘beach’, located on the southeastern coast, is accessible only by boat. We weren’t keen on spending a whole day on the boat so opted for a shorter, 4-hour boat tour, which was perfect. The boat left from Agia Kiriaki Beach, making one stop for snorkeling before getting to Kleftiko. And it did not disappoint!
The best part about catching the boat from Agia Kiriaki Beach is discovering Root nearby for dinner. The setting is stunning, as it’s an open air restaurant with beautiful views of the Aegean and the menu offers modern versions of traditional Greek cuisine. It was EXCELLENT!
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Our morning fast ferry got us to Sifnos in about an hour. After checking into our Airbnb, we grabbed lunch in the outdoor garden of Fasolu Restaurant, a great spot near the beach with excellent food.
Since we were pretty beached out from Milos, we decided to explore the the various areas and churches of Sifnos instead of heading to the beaches. Our first stop was the village of Kastro—perched on a hill with narrow, winding streets and stunning views of the Aegean Sea. Be prepared to climb a lot of steps up to the village. Perched on a small hill, jutting out into the Aegean near Kastro is The Church of the Seven Martyrs—a small, beautiful, whitewashed church.One of our Sifnos highlights was dinner at NŌS, located in the beautiful NOS Hotel & Villas. With stunning views of the Aegean, this elegant open-air restaurant, highlights traditional Sifnian ingredients and is a must-visit if you're on the island.
Enjoying the Aegeon from Chrisopigi Monastery
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We spent the morning exploring more of Sifnos, including a visit to the Chrisopigi Monastery. In the early afternoon, we drove around the island, making stops at Vathi, a quiet seaside village, Cheronissos Beach, and a few other spots, before heading to the port for our ferry back to Milos.
This was our last night in Milos and we wanted to end our time with a great meal and Barriello did not disappoint. The lively, outdoor setting overlooking the Aegean was perfect, as was the food. The appetizers were out of this world. Make a reservation during busy season. -