The Canary Islands
Gran Canaria, La Palma and Lanzarote
Playa de Nogales, La Palma, Canary Islands
Gran Canaria: An Island of Contrasts - From Volcanic Peaks to Golden Dunes
Gran Canaria, the third-largest of the Canary Islands, is a land of striking contrasts. Within a single day, you can traverse golden sand dunes, hike through lush forests, marvel at dramatic volcanic peaks and explore charming historic towns while indulging in exceptional food, making the island a fantastic destination for outdoor enthusiasts, beach bums and culinary enthusiasts.
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We had a full day planned so we got an early start. From Maspalomas, we drove north to Fataga, a charming little village, with whitewashed houses, narrow cobblestone streets, and vibrant bougainvillea. After a walk around the village, we continued our drive north to Roque Nublo—one of Gran Canaria's most iconic landmarks—for a hike.
Roque Nublo is a massive volcanic rock formation, perched atop a plateau nearly 1,800 meters above sea level. The area is surrounded by dramatic cliffs and offers panoramic views of Gran Canaria. The trail is a relatively easy 1.5 kilometers each way and winds through pine forests and rugged terrain. On clear days, you can even catch a glimpse of Mount Teide on neighboring Tenerife.
After this hike, we headed through the mountains to Bochinche, Bodega La Montaña. A true hidden gem (there’s no way we would have found this had it not been for our friend who lives there), the restaurant is both a winery and a farm, serving Canarian cuisine in a scenic, rustic setting.
After lunch we headed further north to Teror, Gran Canaria's most picturesque and historically significant towns. Nestled in the island's lush interior, Teror’s streets are lined with beautifully preserved traditional Canarian houses, featuring signature wooden balconies and vibrant colors.
After walking around and having a drink and snack in the main square, we headed back to Maspalomas for the evening.
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Today we headed to the northern coast of the island. About an hour’s drive from Maspalomas is the village of Arucas—also known as the City of Rum, thanks to its historic Arehucas Rum Distillery. The village is also known for its magnificent Church of San Juan Bautista, often mistaken for a cathedral due to its neo-Gothic design, crafted entirely from local volcanic stone.
After a walk around the village we headed for a hike to the Reserva Natural Especial de los Tilos, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve known for its ancient laurel forest. We followed the trail to the village of Moya, which takes you through a canopy of ancient trees, dense vegetation and vibrant flora with scenic viewpoints.
From Moya we headed to Agaete—a coastal town in the northwest. The town boasts stunning views of the Atlantic and is home to a quaint fishing port known for its fresh seafood restaurants. After a delicious lunch, we went for a swim in the Piscine Natural, natural seawater pool, carved into the volcanic rock along the coastline.
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We took an early morning flight to La Palma. It was a quick 50 minutes, getting us there in the morning.
After picking up our rental car, we headed to the capital, Santa Cruz de La Palma, the charming capital of La Palma, a historic town known for its cobbled streets, picturesque plazas, and well-preserved 16th-century buildings.
After a leisurely stroll around town, we headed to Breña Alta for lunch. Sadly, it looks like the restaurant has since closed.We stayed at the Melia La Palma and spent the evening at the pool before heading for dinner nearby.
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About a 2-hour long drive from our hotel, in the mountains of La Palma is Roque de los Muchachos, the highest point on La Palma, at 2,426 meters. It’s also home to the Roque de los Muchachos Observatory (featured in the George Clooney film Midnight Sky), one of the world’s leading astronomical centers, thanks to La Palma's pristine skies.
We spent the morning hiking around the summit, from where the views were breathtaking. To one side, you’ll see the Caldera de Taburiente, a massive volcanic crater. On the other side, the island’s dramatic coastline stretches into the sparkling Atlantic Ocean, where, on a clear day, you can spot neighboring islands.
After lunch at Camu Camu, a beautiful spot with excellent food and great views, we drove down to Cuevas de Buracas for a short walk around for more views of La Palma’s coastline.
The late afternoon and early evening was spent pool side for some much needed downtime after our very early morning start.
La Palma airport
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Lanzarote, the easternmost of the Canary Islands, is knows for its striking volcanic landscape and its predominantly whitewashed houses with green doors and windows.
We drove from the airport to Timanfaya National Park, a vast landscape shaped by volcanic activity creating craters and lava fields. Stay to watch the geothermal activity demonstrations at the visitors center. The only way to explore the park is through a guided bus tour, which is well worth it. We stayed for lunch at the restaurant, which was designed by César Manrique and uses geothermal heat to cook its food (so cool!)
After lunch we drove to San Bartolome to Bodegas El Grifo—a beautiful winery—for a tour and wine tasting. We stayed at the beautiful Kamezi Boutique Villas, which is where we spent the evening relaxing with some takeout food.
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Our second and last day in Lanzarote was spent visiting the northeast side of the island and some of César Manrique’s most iconic creations on the island.
Our first stop was the fishing village of Punta Mujeres, where we stopped for an early lunch. Our next stop was Jameos del Agua, a volcanic cave transformed into a cultural space with a subterranean lagoon, lush greenery, and an auditorium. Cueva de los Verdes, part of the same volcanic tunnel, leads to what appears to be a bottomless chasm, but in fact, is a shallow layer of perfectly still water reflecting the cave ceiling so flawlessly that it tricks the eye. Our last stop was the Mirador del Río, perched on a cliff with breathtaking panoramic views of La Graciosa and the surrounding islands.
Our final stop was Playa de Papagayo, a gem on the southern tip of Lanzarote and considered one of the islands’s most beautiful beaches. Reaching the beach involves a very bumpy and dusty drive along a dirt road, but the effort was worth it. From the parking area, a short walk down a path leads to the crescent-shaped cove, with golden sand and clear turquoise waters of the Atlantic.
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Before heading home, we spent another day in Gran Canaria, this time in Las Palmas, the island’s capital.
It was a relaxing day spent enjoying Las Canteras, the famous urban and very popular beach. The promenade is lined with restaurants and bars, all with outdoor seating to enjoy the atmosphere. We also walked around Vegueta, the chariming historic district of Las Palmas with landmarks including the Santa Ana Cathedral and Casa de Colón (Columbus House).
We stayed at the iconic and beautiful Santa Catalina Hotel, considered as one of Spain’s finest historic hotels. Surrounded by lush gardens, its serene setting and prime location make it an ideal for exploring Las Palmas. -